Sift together flour, baking powder and soda, salt, and nutmeg into a bowl. Blend in butter with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add buttermilk and stir with a fork just until dough is evenly moistened (do not overmix).
Bring syrup and water to a boil in a 4 liter / 4 quart pot at least 25 centimeters / 10 inches wide. Drop 8 1/2 cup measures of dough into syrup, leaving spaces to allow dumplings to expand. Gently simmer over moderately low heat, covered, until tops of dumplings are dry to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm.
Makes 8 (dessert) servings.