In a heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) cook oil and flour over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a flat-edged metal or wooden spatula, until roux is the dark reddish-brown color of chestnut shells, about 45 minutes (alternatively, make microwave brown roux and transfer to skillet). Roux may be made 1 week ahead, cooled completely, and chilled, covered, in a glass or stainless-steel bowl. Reheat roux in skillet over moderately low heat, stirring, before proceeding. Stir in onions, bell pepper, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened.

In a 10-12 quart (10-12 L) heavy kettle bring 4 quarts (4 L) water to a boil and add carrot tops and assorted greens. Simmer greens, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer greens with tongs to a large shallow baking dish, letting excess cooking liquid drip into kettle and reserving all cooking liquid. Cool greens until they can be handled and chop coarse.

Stir beans and remaining 3 quarts (3 L) water into reserved cooking liquid and simmer beans, covered partially, until tender, about 1 hour (older beans may take longer to cook). Add roux mixture by large spoonfuls, stirring well after each addition, and stir in greens, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gumbo, partially covered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes.

Gumbo may be made 2 days ahead, cooled completely, uncovered, and chilled, covered.

Serve gumbo ladled over rice in large soup plates.

Makes 24 cups, serving 10 to 12 as a main course.

Louisiana's "Gumbo Z'Herbes", from the French Gumbo Aux Herbes, was developed in Roman Catholic communities as a meatless dish for lent. Traditionally, the number of guests determines how many types of greens go into the pot, but, if you wish to use only a few greens, just increase their amounts to equal the total quantity called for. Red beans are added to make this gumbo a more complete vegetarian main course.

Gourmet
January 1997